That night, Hachimine found himself in the midst of the frenzy of a festival in Tohoku with a client from Ginza. A man who knew the nightlife better than most was completely swept up by the intensity of Aomori’s summer. It really does come down to connections.
Aomori Nebuta Festival — A Festival That Really Sets Tohoku's Summer Ablaze
The Aomori Nebuta Festival, held in early August each year in downtown Aomori City, is one of the Three Great Festivals of Tohoku. Designated as an Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property of Japan, the festival’s main attraction is the massive “nebutas,” some of which exceed 5 meters in height. These vibrantly colored lanterns, featuring motifs of warriors and mythological creatures, parade through the city streets at night along a route of approximately 3.1 km. What’s more, each float weighs about 4 metric tons. Since they are pushed by hand, the beauty of the lights belies the fact that behind the scenes, it is a true festival of muscle.
The other stars of the show are the “haneto” dancers, who leap about to the chant of “Lassera, Lassera.” The frenzy that unites spectators and dancers into a single, unified whole is said to be an unforgettable experience once you’ve witnessed it. With more than 3 million people flocking to the event each year, it is one of Japan’s most iconic fire festivals.
For Hachimine, this was his first Nebuta Festival. He knew next to nothing about the festival. He didn’t even realize that “Nebuta” and “Neputa” were two different things until he got here. Even though he’s spent 20 years in Ginza and knows just about everything there is to know about the nightlife, when it comes to summer festivals in Tohoku, he’s a complete novice.
The Best Seats and My Connection to a Certain Clothing Store
To begin with, if you want to enjoy this festival in comfort, paid seating is definitely the way to go. However, every year, there’s a fierce scramble for these seats. Both the advance lottery and general sales sell out in the blink of an eye, and good seats aren’t easy to come by.
Amid all this, it was thanks to one particular house that Hachimine was able to settle into the perfect viewing spot."Fashion In Koshu-ya" is located along the Nebuta parade route. Established in Meiji 28, this long-standing clothing store stands in Shinmachi, Aomori City, right on the shopping street that runs along the Nebuta parade route.
This historic shop, now run by its fourth-generation owner, not only sells Western-style clothing year-round but also handles all sales and rentals of Haneto costumes during the Nebuta Festival season. From yukata, tasuki sashes, shigoki aprons, obi belts, and hanagasa hats to the haneto bells—essential for dancing—the shop serves as a one-stop shop for everything needed to make your debut as a haneto dancer.
There was a small connection between Koshu-ya and Hachirei. It really is connections that matter most. Thanks to that, Hachirei was able to watch the Nebuta from a prime vantage point that night.
Here We Go: The Lantern Parade — For Some Reason, I’m Even Wearing a Yukata
As the sun set, the ride finally began. For some reason, Hachirei was wearing a yukata that day. Once again, the “since we’re here, might as well” mentality had kicked in, and at least on the outside, he looked every bit the stylish local. Inside, he was a tourist with zero knowledge of the area, but there’s nothing wrong with starting with the outward appearance. In fact, it’s important.
Looking up at the Nebuta floats from the stands, their sheer power easily surpassed anything I could have imagined. Seeing them up close, I was completely speechless at their sheer size and intricate detail. The warriors’ faces stood out in vivid colors, their muscular contours so realistic they looked as if they might strike at any moment. Every time a float passed right in front of me, a wave of hot air would surge toward me. It felt at least three times bigger than what I’d seen on TV.
And then there was the excitement of the dancers. Shouts of “Rassera, Rassera” rained down from all directions, bells rang out, and the entire town became one giant, pulsating beat. Even Hachimine, who knew little about the festival, didn’t take more than ten seconds to get swept up in the excitement. Before he knew it, his body was swaying of its own accord in time with the chants. A man who had come knowing nothing about the festival had, before he realized it, become more into it than anyone around him.
"I don't get it. But it's fun."
It was a sudden, fleeting realization. His face looked exactly like that of a child.
Another Nebuta Floating on the Sea
The unfathomable nature of this festival lies in the fact that the excitement doesn’t end on land. At the climax of the parade, the “Marine Procession” takes place, during which the Nebuta floats head out to sea. The massive lanterns, now detached from their carts, are loaded onto boats and slowly cross the nighttime waters of Aomori Port. Fireworks burst overhead, their light reflecting off the water’s surface and shimmering.
If the land-based procession embodies “passion,” then the Nebuta on the water embodies “tranquility and fantasy.” The lights that had been rampaging so wildly now appear somehow divine on the water. Hachimine, too, gazed at the scene quietly, as if the commotion from just moments before had never happened. I couldn’t help but be genuinely impressed by how much the impression of the same Nebuta festival could change simply by being on land versus on the water.
The excitement of the festival spills into the streets at night
Well, this is where a man of the night really comes into his own. Hachimine isn’t the sort of person to quietly head home while still basking in the afterglow of the festival. After the lights went out, the group headed to a local hostess club.
A man who’s spent 20 years in Ginza and knows the nightlife there inside and out—there’s no way he wouldn’t check out the nightlife in Aomori. Different regions mean different atmospheres in the bars, different temperaments among the women, and different ways of enjoying drinks. Inside the bustling bar, which felt as though the excitement of the festival had been carried right in, Hachimine was in high spirits. Whether it’s the frenzy of the Nebuta Festival or the fantasy of the sea—the night always brings the journey to a close. This is Hachimine’s way of traveling.
Summary
The massive Nebuta floats, the frenzied dancing of the performers, and that fantastical scene floating on the sea—everything was a fresh experience for Hachimine, who was seeing it all for the first time. Blazing on land, mesmerizing on the sea, and finally wrapping up in the nighttime streets. Aomori’s summer was sizzling all around—from the lights and the warmth of the people to the nightlife.
